this wave is a rare left in a land of rights. I keep my eye on it when the conditions are right. this time it stayed glassy and uncrowded all morning. with all the Cold Water guys in town right now I relished my alone time and stayed out for almost four hours.

my neighborhood is bisected by all these alleyways. this is one is Shi Shi's favorite for some reason.

sunday brought the first rain of the season. i stayed inside and did chores all morning. in the afternoon it cleaned up and i went to check the surf.

not great waves, but a beautiful sunset and glassy conditions, worth putting on the wet suit for.
see you next week.